An Introduction to Alentejo
Evora, Portugal
Alentejo is the biggest region in Portugal. Its vastness encompasses from the long Atlantic coastline to the west and Spain to the east. Many tourists are familiar with Algarve in the south, but not much else in the middle. It is primarily a land of farmers and of rural tourism. From Lisbon, the stylish beach town paradise of Comporta is a 90 minute drive. But there is so much more to this marvelous region. My favourite part, and the centre of the Alentejo wine universe which I have now found myself in, is Evora, the stunning UNESCO listed regional capital with its whitewashed houses and wrought-iron balconies dating from the 16th to 18th centuries.
Evora is the central point from which the Alentejo wine world revolves. From here, wineries and vineyards stretch through this part of the region, dotting the landscape past many medieval towns with their ubiquitous hilltop castles. Family run wine estates abound, with much of the winemaking still using the traditional methods of old.
For it is here that we find ourselves amongst one of the world’s oldest wine regions. We are talking 4000 years of ancient history across 8 different subregions. There is so much to discover for the wine lover. Old-fashioned methods blend seamlessly with the modern here. There is a wonderful mix of tradition and the new, spreading across the winemaking of the region. Many wines are aged in clay vessels known as amphoras. Red wine makes up close to 80% of the production, but white wine is increasingly becoming prevalent and its popularity increasing as the region inches a little hotter every year. Here, and in much of Portugal, it is the blend that reigns supreme. For Portuguese winemakers have mastered a true skill. They are masters of the wine blend. The regions indigenous grapes lend themselves to meticulous, carefully crafted blends that create wines that are far more than the sum of individual of two-grape styles. Each grape varietal adds just that little bit extra that makes for unique wines of undeniable quality.
Estremoz, Portugal
For centuries, experimental blending has improved the quality of the finished wines of the regions. Naturally, today they are better than ever and this rise in quality continues at a rapid pace. In many circumstances, the recipes for the wines can change considerably from vintage to vintage. To keep a label consistent and true to form each year and change the composition according to vintage challenges is an incredible skill. In some instances, the percentages of a given varietal changes by barely a percentage point. A grape may be swapped out entirely for another, allowing a slight difference in texture and ability to soften the balance of the wine.
Alentejo is the region where I began to understand the fine art of blending. For it truly is like an artist’s palate. In the end, the wine produced in what may be a more difficult vintage will be the very best it can be. The wines of Alentejo are remarkable matches for food. The reds in particular take on another dimension when coupled with food, perfect partners for the bountiful produce of the extensive farms in the region. It is a marriage made in heaven.
Alentejo is the #1 Portuguese region for domestic sales. It only achieves around 18% value of total Portuguese wine exports. The fact that he premium wines of Alentejo have not made it to Australian shores in the past is a travesty. Now is a good a time as ever, as I watch them go from strength to strength. I’m happy that you can join me on this journey of discovery as I introduce these wines to you. I am proud to bring some of the finest now, with more to come as I build relationships with such fine winemakers. Any true wine lover cannot fail to be impressed with what has and is being achieved in this compelling region. I hope you will raise a glass or two of these very fine wines soon.